Multifunction table saw for carpentry. enredandonogaraxe.club

DIY combination machine removable in sections

We continue with the homemade multifunction table that Félix Gómez Martín made for himself. We have already seen how he made the aluminum guides and now we are going to see how the table is made and how the milling machine, the disk saw and the jigsaw are connected under the table top.

Folding table saw.

“My goal with the table is that since I live in an apartment and have little space, it can be disassembled and transported to a garage or any other place where I need it. I chose 1 cm plywood because it is both torsion-resistant and light in weight. Therefore, what I did was to glue two 1 cm boards together, leaving the machine bed lowered to 1 cm so as not to lose too much cutting or milling height.

At the same time the table is reinforced at the bottom with pine slats. I tested it by dropping my weight lying on it and it held up (I weigh about 90 kg).”

Table saw on trestles.

“After giving a lot of thought to the issue of the legs (remember that it had to be removable) the best and cheapest option I saw was to mount it on some cheap pine trestles. In one of the pictures you can see how I fixed the table to the trestles. I put a nut of embedding in the table’s corner blocks and then I drilled the trestle on the top. With pieces of wood of abbebay (sapelli) that I had saved from a broom handle, I cut them and inserted a long screw to which I previously cut the head so that once embedded in the handle they could be screwed to the table with the hand in the 4 corners, being thus the table fixed to the trestles”.

“As far as being able to move the height of the machines, since the table is not very high and I have plenty of room to reach in, I don’t find it uncomfortable at all to manage the height of the circular saw that in my case is a Black and Decker 1500W and as for the milling machine I have, the Ryobi 1400W (like mine) brings a rod that makes you quite comfortable to handle it in height with your hand under the table.”

“The guide that runs perpendicular I chose to make it with an aluminum profile since I wanted maximum precision and the wooden slats end up twisting all of them. Since it still has a little bit of slack I decided to put two meters embedded in the table and I put two small C clamping jacks on each end of the guide with rivets, both to the ruler and to the “u” profile, so I get perfect cuts by tightening both jacks with both meters.

Underneath the table where the jacks run I put flat aluminum profiles because although the tabletop is resistant to torsion it is not so resistant to the blows or pressure of the jacks and if I hadn’t put the profiles I would have ended up with the table dusty underneath from so much tightening and loosening.”

Miter guide.

“As for the rule that goes with the angle protractor, I made it out of wood to be able to use it also with the router (it could not be made of aluminum) but to avoid the maximum torsion it is also varnished and has a flat aluminum profile screwed on the upper part. Apart from having the angle protractor as a “miter saw”, it also has, as you can see in the photo, another board, this one made of beech, screwed with rails and palometas to be able to lengthen it both on one side and on the other to be able to perform milling.”

“The machines are very quick to pick up, I just have to fit and as you can see in the photos take the metal plates I have (they were from the trunk of the bike) and fit them into the screws that are recessed in the table with studs and tighten them with wing nuts. I don’t modify the machines at all and mounting and dismounting them is pretty quick and they fit tightly to the table.”

“I do not want to leave the machines fixed because then I would lose the function of being removable, and as for the adjustment, it is solved because mainly the circular fits perfectly on the bed without any slack. This adjustment cost me to get it based on, after making the bed, adding small wooden wedges (flat toothed sticks) glued until I get the perfect fit. As a result, I can remove and replace the saw in less than 1 minute and it is always completely tight.”

Jig saw under the table top.

“For all machines the rules are the same. As for the jig saw, it is the one thing that convinces me the least. If you cut with the rulers obviously the cut with the cutter It comes out well, but the drawbacks that I have seen and that on the other hand I think that almost all the comments that I have read about it have are that the saw pushes up the piece to count and you have to be careful and the second negative point that I have seen is that if I put the revolutions to the maximum it vibrates a lot. At this point I have to say that it will get you out of a jam, but a band saw would be the way to go.”

Fasten the side guide.

“It doesn’t dance or shift at all since the board is bolted to the trestles. The profile runs well. It has a little play, but more than the profile itself, it is the catch between the vertical aluminum ruler and the guide, but having two jacks, one at each end, does not affect when cutting because it is completely fixed.”

Multifunction table switch.

“The switch that I put has 2 plugs, one that always carries current in case I have to connect a drill or something similar and the other that goes through the cut-off key to turn on and off the machines from the table. Also, as it is going to be stored standing, I have put on one of the edges the plastic feet that are usually put on the legs of the chairs to avoid the wood in contact with the floor. And finally, so as not to have the cable of the machines hanging, I put some open eyebolts to collect the cable”.

As I always say, this type of switch can be turned on accidentally. Try to get a safety one.

“The entire table has about 10 coats of water-based polyurethane varnish to make the surface scratch-resistant while preventing moisture from penetrating and warping it. The plywood tops suck varnish like a treat.”

“At first I made it 51cm x 80 cm, but then I realized that if I wanted to cut boards with a width greater than 42 cm, which is what I had from the disc to the top where the ruler was, it would not be very functional. After seeing all the furniture I had around the house the narrowest was 50 cm, so I decided to lengthen it 30 cm more, (as you can see in the first photo it has an addition), an addition that I put with the system of the engalletado and reinforcing it with a strip below, so now it is with a width of 110 cm and possibility of cutting boards up to 74 cm, which gives me practically for any work of normal furniture.”

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