How to cut seams of straight ties or fingers

I make a finger joint with hand tools. Part 2

We saw in a previous post how to cut the teeth and holes in the straight ties union in the first table. Now I am going to use that first table already cut, to mark the size of the gaps that I have to cut in the second table, to make this joint of wood type straight fingers.

I am going to put the first edge board on the side of the end of this second board to mark the depth of the holes I want to cut. And now, placing on the second table the holes and the teeth that I already have cut in the first table (1), I can mark the size of the teeth that I must leave and the holes that I must cut in the second table.

Mark the joint holes to be cut

As we see in the picture, the lines I draw belong to the teeth I should leave, so I should avoid cutting those lines.


Finish marking the gaps of the union of straight ties

So, with the dimensions of the teeth and the gaps already marked, I draw a blur on the wood that I want to eliminate (the gaps), and I draw a "V" on the wood that I want to leave (the teeth). Also, I'm going to draw a little triangle on the side of the lines that is in the smear area (in the gap area). I want to cut something separate from the lines and in the area where I drew the triangle (2). Once I have marked what to cut and where to make the cuts, I extend the lines on the top of the table (3), and on the other side of the table (4). I also have to extend the line that marks the depth of the cuts (5) towards the sides.

Cut the wood from the holes of the union of straight ties

With all the lines marked and being very clear where I am going to cut, I place the table in my homemade vise and I start cutting following the same procedure that I used, when cutting the teeth and holes in this straight ties union, in the first table: I make all the cuts from one side with the inclined saw (6); I make all the cuts from the other side with the inclined saw (7); I finish making the cuts with the horizontal saw (8); and remove most of the wood from the holes with the marquetry saw (9).

Cut and adjust the gaps of this joinery joint

Now, just like I did with the first board, I have to adjust and clean the base of the holes with a chisel (9b). So I can start adjusting the width of the holes, so that the teeth of the other joint table fit perfectly.

Adjust the size of the gaps with the chisel

With the chisel very vertical and glued to the line, but without being on top of it, I am going to cut vertically downwards. I start by marking next to the line (10a), I cut down little by little (10b), and I finish cutting reaching the base of the hole (11). I cut the chips at the base (12) and do the same with the rest of the lines.

Test and adjust the union of straight ties with the chisel

And with all the cuts made, it is a matter of testing how the union is, and of making the necessary adjustments with the chisel until the union of straight ties fits perfectly. The trick is to make sure not to cut too much at any time, and gradually approach the size of the holes with the chisel, until the teeth of the other part of the joint fit perfectly.

-> Go back to the first part.


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