Una vez las partes principales de la vitrina expositora acristalada están hechas, ahora puedo montar las patas y las decoraciones, y terminar de montar toda la vitrina de madera. Más adelante, en otras entradas de este blog le instalaré la cerradura y un compás que mantenga la puerta abierta.
I leave you the video with the manufacture from scratch, the same video that I put in the first article on the making of this display case. Look at the bottom for links to all the articles on how I made this display case.
On the exterior part of the window, in the corners, there are decorative turned pieces. They imitate the decorations that the Galician raised granaries (the typical hórreos) have at both ends of the ridge of the roof. In each corner I drill a couple of dowel holes, one to each side of the miter joint.
And with a simple dowel joints jig, which allows me to put the four turnings in exactly the same position in each corner, I can mark the position in which to drill the holes in the base of those four decorations.
With the help of the guide I used to make the cuts on the miter saw, I hold these turned pieces horizontally to drill the two holes in the base.
With a little glue and some wooden dowels I put the four turned pieces in place.
I would like to glue the legs without the tubes under the circles. I apply glue and put them on first by eye, measuring them later, more or less, to try to leave them all exactly the same. Once the glue has dried I drill a pilot hole from the other side of the circle and insert a screw to reinforce and secure the turned legs.
Now, with the help of that simple guide we saw earlier, the one with a couple of metal angles screwed into it, along with a couple of slats as spacers, I glue all the legs in place at the corners, under the square frame that goes at the base of the structure of this display case.
Once the glue is dry, I screw the frame to the legs.
Now, before I forget, I have to install the mortise hinges. I measure and mark, on the display case structure, the position where I want to put the two small (and expensive) mortise hinges I bought, taking into account the small turning radius they have, and put a point on both marks.
I place the window on top, measuring to center it, and press it against the ends to mark the exact position on the window. And I can drill the holes.
Now I can screw the base with the legs under the display case structure. I won’t put the top window in place until I varnish all the parts, put the glass in and screw the glazing beads in.
To varnish I use a transparent satin varnish spray. It is easy and fast to apply, and a good finish is obtained. I apply one coat, let it dry, sand gently and apply a second coat.
And as soon as the varnish is dry I can place the glass and screw the glazing beads with the decorative brass screws I bought. The numbering helps me get all the glazing beads in place, and I only have to worry about screwing them in carefully, as the screws are soft metal and the slot in the head nicks them easily.
I fit the hinges into the holes of the window (as you can see in the video, a clamp can be a great help to fit the hinges well), now I put the window in place, fitting the hinges into the holes of the structure, and I have the finished display case. Or almost, I’m missing the lock and the door retention compass.
See in this links all the parts on how to make this display case for the queimada earthenware pot:
How to install a hidden lid support hinge
How to install a small full mortise lock in wood display case
How to make a display case for an earthenware pot, part 2
