Hace unos días me compré unos planos de una silla Adirondack, que es una silla de jardín muy bonita y realmente cómoda. Estas sillas de madera son de origen canadiense, y también se las conoce como sillas Muskoka. Hace ya unos mesas yo me hice mi propia versión de estas sillas de jardín con madera de palet. Y hace unos años, antes de tener el canal de carpintería y bricolaje en YouTube, me había hecho unas a partir de unos planos que había encontrado en internet. Ahora por fin volví a encontrar esos planos, y para poder utilizarlos todas las veces que quiera, y que sea más fácil hacer estas sillas Adirondack, en esta entrada voy a hacer unas plantillas de carpintería (<- mira cómo utilizarlas) a partir de los planos de esta silla.
Mira todos los artículos: Silla Adirondack
You can find many Adirondack chair plans, but for me this is the most beautiful one. You have the link to the plans of this garden chair at the end of this post.
The plans I bought also show how to assemble the Adirondack chair. But I have my own tips and tricks. So in a future project we will see how to use the templates I am making in this post to cut the pieces, and how to assemble this garden chair.
So now, to make the woodworking templates, I bought a good quality phenolic plywood board. It is 1 cm thick.
Now I cut the pieces of paper from the plans at half a centimeter from the line. And with stencil glue I glue the pieces to the phenolic plywood board. Although on a couple of larger pieces I decided to cut against one of the long straighter lines. And I fitted those straight lines to the edge of the plywood board. This saves me cutting and adjusting those edges of the templates.
Now I can use the jigsaw to cut all the pieces. But since it would be difficult to make clean and precise cuts, it is better to cut at about 3 millimeters from the lines. And later I will adjust the pieces to the lines with my homemade sanders.
As I said, when cutting the plans of this Adirondack chair I try to stay within a few millimeters of the cut line. But to make sure I don’t cut the line at any point, in some parts I separate up to half a centimeter from the line. Although the biggest problem is that the edge of the paper, not being glued well, sometimes lifts up and the saw breaks it instead of cutting it. So I have to be very careful not to cut the line.
So, after cutting all the pieces from the plans, I still have quite a bit of work to do. And now it’s time to adjust the woodworking templates as best as possible, sanding the edges right down to the lines.
Entonces, ahora empiezo utilizando mi lijadora de tambor casera. Y lo primero va a ser lijar las líneas interiores, o cóncavas, justo hasta la línea. Así que tengo que tener paciencia e ir poco a poco. Y si el papel se levanta lo tengo que ir bajando con los dedos para ir viendo como voy.
In addition, I have to sand against the drum sander as I move the workpiece to one side, to try to get a smooth and continuous sanding and to avoid wavy marks in the edge.
But when sanding the straight edges with this drill press drum sander, I sand only to within a couple of millimeters of the line. As it will be easier to sand those straight edges on the disc sander. And with the outer, or convex, curves, the same. They are easier to sand and adjust with the disc sander. So in these two cases I just use the drum sander to approximate to the plans line.
Y ahora con la lijadora de disco casera voy a terminar de ajustar estas plantillas de carpintería. Solo me faltan por ajustar los bordes rectos y las curvas exteriores. En cuanto a las curvas exteriores, son bastante fáciles de lijar y ajustar en la lijadora de disco casera.
But the straight edges of the templates are more difficult to sand well. And if we have good Adirondack chair plans, but we don’t make good woodworking templates from them, we will run into problems during fabrication.
My trick is to sand only on the edge of the sanding disc. Without pressing towards the center of the disc, but leaving a very small angle between the piece to be sanded and the sanding disc surface.
And finally I pass the entire edge of the piece against the sanding disc, from left to right. This way I eliminate small irregularities. If everything is okay, I should be making a straight and smooth edge in the template.
And now I just need to sand the burrs with a medium grit foam sanding block. And so I have these woodworking templates ready to make one Adirondack chair. Or as many as I want to make.
See here where to buy these Adirondack chair plans.
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