In a previous post we saw how to make the carpentry templates from the chair planes Adirondack. Those plans were on 1: 1 scale paper, and I used them to make the plywood templates. In this post we are going to see how to use those carpentry templates to make all the pieces of the garden chair in solid chestnut wood.
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Cut the pieces with the jigsaw
So, to make this Adirondack chair I am going to use solid chestnut wood, so I bought the necessary planks. And I asked them to thicken it and brush it so that they were 3cm thick. In the plans it says that we use 3/4 inch wood, about 2cm thick, but with 3cm thick wood it will be better. Except for the seat and backrest slats, I will use 16mm thick wood that I will prepare myself.
So the first thing I have to do is copy the shapes of the templates onto the chestnut wood planks. At the moment I only copy the parts of the Adirondack chair frame. I will prepare the seat and back slats later.
And now, in order to work more comfortably, I use the jigsaw to cut the planks into smaller pieces. This will make it easier for me to work with them.
So to cut the pieces my idea was to use my table jigsaw. But I realized right away that it was too hard for him to cut through this thick solid wood.
In the end I decided that it was best to use the hand jigsaw. It was going to be a lot of work, but in the absence of a bandsaw it was the best option.
The problem is that it is still a lot of work for the jig, especially considering the amount of cuts that have to be made. So in these cases I usually cut "by jumps." So, I advance the cut a little and go back. And so on until you finish cutting the wood. In this way I let the cutting blade and the motor of the machine breathe. And I avoid that they can overheat.
Also, cutting right on the cut line would be very difficult, and you would have to sand a lot later. It is better to cut a few millimeters from the line. So, later I can use the carpentry templates to mill perfect pieces. And after milling, the edge of the pieces hardly needs to be sanded.
As for the cutting blade of the jigsaw, I was testing two or three blades and finally saw that the one that gave me the best results is the one we see in the photos.
How to mill with carpentry templates
So, after pre-cutting all the pieces of the Adirondack chair frame, I can now use the carpentry templates to mill the pieces and make them perfect.
So, it's about putting several pieces of double-sided tape on the part I want to mill. And I glue on top of it the piece of the corresponding plywood template. I have to press the plywood well against the double-sided tape to make sure it's secure. And I also need to make sure that the piece of chestnut wood slightly protrudes all around the plywood template.
And now I can use a bearing milling cutter to copy the exact shape of the carpentry templates into the solid chestnut wood pieces.
Then, it is a matter of carefully pushing the workpiece-plywood jig assembly until the plywood contacts the bearing of the copying mill. And I'm moving the workpiece-plywood jig assembly keeping the bearing glued to the jig. This way the milling cutter mills the workpiece to leave it exactly the same as the carpentry template that you are using at any time.
But although the task of copying the shape of the carpentry templates on the wooden parts of the chair is simple, when milling small parts it can be dangerous. You should do some support, or use pushers to do this task more safely.
And speaking of the small parts, in the plans of the Adirondack chair there are some pieces that serve as support for the front part of the armrests. But there are no brackets for the back of these. So, as the armrests are quite wide, and surely people will take advantage of them to sit on them, I think it is best to put a support on the back as well. I made some a little smaller than the ones on the front, but basically the same shape.
How to make the seat and backrest slats
To make the slats for the seat and the back of this wooden chair I will use a 4cm thick wooden plank. And I am going to cut it, on the table saw, into strips somewhat wider than the slats for the seat and back.
Now, on the same table saw, I cut those brown wood slats into two equal slats.
And with the homemade thicknesser, thickness the slats to make them 16mm thick.
And finally I can use the carpentry templates of this wooden chair, to mill all the slats I need for the backrest and seat. As I did with the parts of the structure, I draw the parts I need on the slats, I pre-cut them with the jigsaw, and I finish giving them the exact shape with the help of the templates and the milling cutter with bearing.
This way I have all the pieces of this Adirondack style wooden chair.
Of course, I didn't bother so much when I had a pallet chair a few months ago.
Retouch the sides of this wooden chair
One detail I forgot about is that the seat slats do not "sit" well on the front of the sides of this wooden chair. And it is that the front of the sides has a pronounced curve, so the slats dance on top. That is why I decided to make three flat areas so that the slats fit well.
I could go directly to cut the three flat areas on the sides of the wooden chair, but I think it is best to leave the carpentry templates ready. So I draw the flat areas that I need on the corresponding template. I have to make them very slightly wider than the seat slats.
And now I modify the template on the homemade disc sander.
So I can finally use double-sided tape again to stick the template to the sides of the wooden chair. And I re-mill the front of both sides. The result will be two sides exactly the same with the three flat areas I need for the seat slats.
And we only need to see how to assemble all the parts of this Adirondack chair, but we will see that in a future post.
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