Milling table and lifting system.

Do it yourself router table

To work as a carpenter, I think it would be too small, but as a carpentry fan, I wanted to have a milling table that would make my job easier and increase the capacity of my little one. carpentry shop.

See all my articles on how to make one> milling table <or homemade router.

Home Wood Milling Table Insert

Attaching the plunge router machine under a table top is not very difficult: we remove the plastic cover from the base and use it as a template to make the holes in the table top; we look for some long screws with the same diameter as the screws in the cover we just removed; we cut the screws to the size we need; and we make a recess for the screws head on the top of the board. Now I just have to make a hole in the center of the router table top so the router bit can pass through the board, and I screw the plunge router machine under the board (I must be careful with the screws. The first ones I used turned out to be very soft and they broke when tightened, remaining inside the base of the milling machine). The problem is adjusting the height of the router machine, so first of all I wanted to have some router table lift . And the next thing will be to make the router table fence , but that will also be another post.

At first I was going to mount the router on a 1cm thick board like the one I used for the table saw, but since I wanted to make a recess for some inserts adjustable to the burs and I also had to reduce the holes for the screw heads , I would only have a few millimeters of board left between the head of the screws and the base of the router and it would surely end up breaking the board under the head of the screws. I ended up using 16mm plywood that I bought by pre-cut pieces (I didn't want to pay for a whole board that was very expensive and I found it pre-cut to a size that fits my table well). To keep the table level, I had to remove the white board from the table saw area and put another 16mm plywood board in place.

I made the recess for the inserts freehand. It seems complicated to do if you do not have practice, but cutting the entire contour with a cutter first and approaching the cut little by little we will see how the wood jumps, thus avoiding overdoing it. After a few touches of chisel and sandpaper to adjust the insert and that's it.

Those of you who have attached a router of this type under the table will know that another problem with a homemade milling table is that the bur holder does not reach the height of the table. And if the bur to be used does not have a long enough handle, we may find that we cannot bring it to the desired height. After some tests it turns out that some of my strawberries are very tight, so I am going to attach a extension mandrel milling cutter that will also facilitate the change of strawberry. As soon as they send it to me, I'll show it to you.

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15 comments on "Milling table"

    1. Thank you. It gave me some problem but now it is very smooth. In a couple of days I will have the mandrel. I think the best thing would be to be able to change the strawberries more easily. Regards

    2. Okay. I specifically bought it online in commercial pazos. I recommend asking them before buying, because the one you need will depend on the diameter of the axis of the strawberries that your milling machine supports. Also inform you if you bring the bushing that goes inside the chuck that grips the axis of the strawberry, in case you have to buy it separately.
      For 12mm milling machines the mandrel comes in one piece. For the 8mm ones there are two pieces that are purchased separately.

    3. The bushings of your milling machine are NOT suitable for the mandrel. At least the bushings on my router don't fit the mandrel I bought. Luckily my mandrel came with the cap that I needed.

    4. Hello Sergio. This table looks great to me. In fact, I'm thinking of doing something very similar to myself. What I have not been very clear about is the drill chuck to get more travel. I must be very clumsy, because I have looked it up on the internet, but I only find photos, and I do not have an idea of ​​how it works. Has it reached you yet? Could you put a photo of how it works?

      Thank you

    5. Hi and thanks. On the facebook page of enredandonogaraxe you have a picture of the mandrels. In the two messages above yours I explain some things. I still could not buy all the pieces I want to make the corresponding entry, as soon as I have them I will also make a video explaining it. While you go through the facebook page and take a look at the photo.
      If you are going to buy the pieces online, send an email asking to make sure that you buy what you need. And don't forget the tweezers.

  1. Without wanting to advertise, but it will inevitably be because of my question ... What brand and model of Router is the most recommended for this? I see several and I don't know which one to choose… Thank you and best regards.

    1. For use on the router table I would recommend a router that accepts 12mm and 1 inch end mills. Thus, the possibilities of the table increase a lot, since there are 12mm and 1 "burs that are not manufactured with an 8mm shank. Milling machines of this type usually cost a lot, but I found a" power plus X093 "of 1500W per 100 € Very good price for such a milling machine Now that I don't know if it will hold if I give it a very intensive job.
      Bring bushings for 8mm and 12mm drills and bushing for 1 "drills. If you use 8mm drills you will surely need an extension chuck. As soon as I can I will make an entry about this. Greetings

    2. Hello, I found your block by chance, and the first thing is to congratulate you for such a laborious job, and the second is that I see that when you build the milling table, you place the suction tube underneath, but then I see a video where you have the tube from above. what happened? Was not the aspiration from below effective? You see, I'm building a table for myself and I wanted to put the suction underneath, because if I put it in the guide, when I mill the wood, if I don't do it right on the edge, the guide will no longer suck anything, since it will be away from the blade . I don't know if I've been able to explain myself.


    3. Hi thanks!!
      I intend to use both at the same time with a connection to split the suction tube in two. I would recommend that you have both systems ready to connect them. You just have to remove the tube from one place and put it in the other. The aspiration in the guide works very well, so make the box to connect it. To connect it from below I simply use the connection that came with the milling machine.

    4. OK Thank you very much, I will.
      By the way, I have the "power plus X090", and I am happy with it.

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