Now that I have done the wooden frame from the window, we are going to see a simple method to make wooden windows. That if, to make simple wooden windows, since in this case it is to ventilate a shed. So it will also have a metal mesh instead of glass.
I make a wooden window with reinforced miter joints
To make simple wooden windows we can make miter joints. So, with the help of the frame I made in the previous entry, I am going to measure the stringers and the window sills. And with the miter saw I can cut at 45 degrees to make the wooden assemblies miter.
Now I have to dry mount the window with the help of a tightening strap. So I can measure and cut a central crossbar. And I am going to join this central crossbar with wooden studs. Then, with the help of the horizontal table and the vertical column drill table, I am going to drill the holes to make the wooden assemblies with dowels.
So, first I drill the holes in the head in both ends of the wooden cross rail. And then I can use some metal center points to mark where to drill in the wooden window stiles.
And once I see that the rails and the crossbars fit well, I can already glue the wooden window. I have to apply a little glue on the 45-degree miter joints and on the joints with dowels. And keep everything together and tight with the tightening strap. Until the carpenter's tail dries. Although not everything could be perfect, and as we see in one of the images, the miter joints did not turn out perfect. Luckily it is not something that worries me much in this simple window, since I can fix it with wood pulp. Now i have one guide for cutting miter joints with the homemade table saw, which allows me to cut 45 degrees more precisely.
Also, those miter joints are a bit simple for a window, so if we are going to make wooden windows that are as simple as this one, it is better to use a woodworking jig to reinforce the miter joints (here you can watch my jig in action ) to reinforce the corners.
After allowing the carpenter's glue to dry, sand the corners well to leave the veneers flush with the surface of the window edges. And I check if the window fits well in the frame. But it turns out that, unsurprisingly, it is slightly larger than the frame. Luckily i can use a woodworking guide I made to make long straight cuts with the circular saw. And it helps me to precisely adjust the size and fit the frame with the clearance I want.
Now, because I don't want to just staple the mesh to the wood, I make some slats that will cover the mesh around the holes of the window. And to accommodate the welded metal mesh under the slats, I use the table saw to cut a recess. If I don't cut the recess, the slats won't sit flat on the metallic mesh.
And I cut them to 45 degrees so that they make a frame around the window openings.
I install a lock and hinges in the wooden window
To install the window lock I have to route a mortise for the lock case and another one for the lock plate. Something quite simple to do if we have a plunge router. The most difficult part is usually to hold these wooden windows to be able to work on the edge with the plunge router.
It is almost more difficult to make the keyhole to pass the key of the lock. I never get to make a keyhole that is beautifully shaped. Fortunately, I will cover the keyhole with a keyhole plate.
So now I can sand all the wood well, first with medium grit sandpaper and then with fine grit sandpaper. And I apply an abundant couple of hands of moisture protector and woodworm protection. Something essential if we want to protect these wooden windows that will be very exposed to the outside weather.
Once the wood protector is dry, I staple the welded metal mesh on the wood surface around the window openings. And I screw the slats covering the staples.
Now I only have to put the hinges. For this I had to make a small recess in the slats that go on the welded metal mesh. Just to prevent the hinges from protruding beyond the wooden frame. But apart from that, these hinges, that go on the wood surface and in sight, are very easy to put on.