I am renovating my small carpentry and DIY workshop, which as you know I have in the garage at home. Although the people who dedicate ourselves to making videos for YouTube, the Youtubers call us (a name that I don't like there very much, much less that of influencer), because we usually arrange the workshop more like a set than a workshop itself. Come on, the idea is that it looks pretty in the videos, or at least decent. That is why I need to make a small interior wall of wood, so that a corner of the workshop will appear beautiful in my carpentry and DIY videos.
And it is that that corner overlooks a somewhat ugly area of the garage, which I cannot take advantage of since there is a small access ramp there. But I can hide that area with a wooden wall, so that when recording my videos I can move the camera more freely without fear of showing the ugly area.
You can see in the following video how I made this wooden wall with a slat structure and OSB board of pressed chips.
Calculate the width and height of the wall
The width of this interior wall is going to be slightly less than the width of an OSB board (which are slightly larger than typical 1220 by 2440 millimeter chipboards). I do not need more and it will be wide enough to be able to take advantage of it in the front and also in the back, where I plan to hang my home woodworking guides. But for the height I have to take into account the position of the metal guides in which the garage door moves.
We see in this image the horizontal metal guide in which the garage door moves when it is open. If I were to make this wall up to the height of this metal guide, as the ceiling frieze in the rest of the garage is higher, the end of this metal guide would bump into the frieze that I am going to put on the ceiling. That's why I bring the horizontal from the end of this metal guide to the side wall of the garage.
And now, from the tongue and groove frieze I already have on the ceiling and going through the mark I just made, I draw the slope that the new frieze will have and that will reach the top of the wooden wall that I want to make.
You see, I had to make it right where I have that plug 🙂. I have to remove it and I will put others.
This line, cutting it with the vertical where I will make the wall, gives me the height of the wall.
I put the base and the top of the slat structure on the ground. I put one of the vertical slats of the structure on top, and mark the height of the wall minus one centimeter on that slat. That centimeter is the thickness of the tongue and groove frieze that will rest on top of the slatted structure.
Inclined rip cutting with the disc saw
Another problem I ran into is that the new wall does not make a 90 degree angle to the old wall. And the vertical strip that goes against the old wall would have to be inclined, so that one of the corners protruded from the front of the structure.
A bit complicated to explain here, so I leave you the video in which we see the problem and how I managed to make, with the hand saw, an inclined cut to the rim all along that strip.
Make the wooden slat structure
The slat structure that serves as the structural support of this interior wall will be very simple, and will consist of a slat at the base, another at the top, three vertical slats, and three horizontal reinforcements between every two vertical slats.
With the help of my simple guide for cutting with the circular saw, I cut the slats from the base and the top of the wooden wall to the required length. And that same carpentry guide helps me cut the angle necessary for the meeting of those slats with the old wall of the garage.
And I also use that guide to precisely cut the length of the three vertical wall slats.
To join the slats I prefer to use wood screws, although I suppose a few well-placed nails would be enough. Specifically, I use those screws that have the upper part of the shaft without thread, with a smooth shaft. The advantage of this type of wood screw is that when you finish inserting them, they press the slats together.
And the fact is that that smooth part does not grip the wood in which I begin to insert the screw, which allows the head of the screw to push that strip against the other in which it enters and grabs the thread.
Measure the interior reinforcements of the wooden wall
In general, the slatted structure of a wooden wall requires horizontal reinforcement. In this case I will put three reinforcements between every two vertical slats.
To measure the interior reinforcement of the wall I simply present the wood slats in place and mark the length they should be. I'm going to cut them with the guide for precise cuts with the circular saw and screw them in place.
That's the ones on one side of the wall, but since I turned one of the vertical slats on the other side, it is a bit more complicated to mark the size and shape of the wood reinforcements there.
There what I do is first mark the length, and then mark the cutting angle on the head of the reinforcement. In the first video of this post I think it looks good how I do it.
On a larger wood wall you should also bend the vertical slats at each end of the wall, as well as put other reinforcements on doors and windows, but on this very small interior wall this will not be necessary.
When I have the slat structure ready, I lay the OSB board on top, letting it all around. And a little measuring a little by eye, I screw the OSB board against the slats of the structure.
Copy the shape of the old wall and line with OSB board
Here, after the work of cutting at an angle along one of the vertical slats, I realized that the old wall is not perfectly vertical (I think because of the wooden frieze that I put in years ago and that began to deform) . Luckily when lining the wall I let the OSB board stick out quite right in the area that goes against that wall.
First I'm going to use the wood router and a bearing copy cutter to fit the OSB board on the other three sides of the wall.
And once I have adjusted the board on the other three sides, I present and level the new wall against the old one and copy the shape of the old wall with a pen and the help of a CD.
I adjust the cutting angle of the keyhole saw, and cut the OSB board.
Screw the wooden wall to the garage floor
To finish I have to screw the wall in place so that it is well fixed and firm.
I drill a few holes in the base of the wooden frame. I put the wooden wall in place and mark the position of those holes in the garage floor. I drill into the ground and insert some nylon dowels.
I put the wall in place, level it, and screw it to the garage floor. In the photo you can see something that reveals that someone helps me by holding the wall while I screw it.
A metal angle at the top is used to screw it to the old wall. And a wooden brace holds it against one of the roof rafters of the workshop.
As you can see, after the work I went through to cut the vertical strip lengthwise at an angle, in the end that strip is separated from the old wooden frieze. The good side is that when I have to remove that old frieze I will be able to re-fit the OSB board to the old wall or to the wood frame batten, whichever case I come across.
And there we can already see the ceiling frieze in place. This is a cheap tongue and groove wood frieze (the problem with the cheap frieze is that it always brings wooden slats in poor condition and you have to select them) that I painted quickly, cut plank to plank to size and screwed it into place with the screws directly to the the view, since for this carpentry job I did not need more.
And here we see the back of the wooden wall made with slat structure. In the background you can see that I also lined that wall with OSB boards. And yes, I promise you that I am trying to be a little more orderly 🙂.