Wooden fence side supports. enredandonogaraxe.club

Using bolts to join the fence parts and finishing it.

Once I have finished making the side supports of the wooden fence, I can now use some bolts to join them at the bottom with an horizontal wooden beam. And then I can fit all the boards that close the gap between the posts. Although as this fence is removable in sections and it has the possibility of regulating the height of the boards, the process of making it and the video took a little longer.

My first intention was to join the side supports at the bottom with a 9×4.5cm horizontal strip placed on edge. I used dowels and threaded insert nuts into which bolts should be screwed, but the surprise was that being soft wood when tightening the bolt it dragged the nut towards itself, even pulling it out of the strip and nailing it to the side support. Luckily I realized in time that that was not a good idea, filled all the holes with glued wooden dowels and changed the system to join the pieces of the fence.

Cover wood holes with dowels.

I decided to put the beam strip horizontally (as in the original design I was shown for the fence). On the table saw I cut a groove along the length of the beam to insert the edge of one of the boards, thus forming an inverted T-beam (yet another inverted T).

I was then able to attach each end of this T beam to each side support with three 8mm bolts. Two bolts entering the bottom horizontal strip at an angle and one bolt entering at 90º in the center of the board that I fitted to make the T beam. For this purpose I drilled holes with a 7mm drill bit, which are a continuation of the corresponding holes in the side supports.

Drill recess for bolt washer.

I actually drilled the holes on the outside of the fence supports first. And then, with the support against the T beam I marked the position of the holes on the beam. I drilled the two holes at medium height of the beam strip and inclined inwards, and for the bolt corresponding to the board I drilled a hole at 90º to the surface of the wood.

I drilled these holes in the side supports of the fence with an 8mm drill bit so that the bolts fit snugly but do not need to be screwed in. This ensures that when the bolts are tightened they pull the wooden T-beam against the support. But before drilling these holes I made a sloped rabbet, with a 30mm Forstner bit, to seat the washers of the bolts that will enter inclined. I also cut the tongue-and-groove board that goes fitted on of the T-beam strip to be the same length as the beam strip. And drilled holes to attach that board with one bolt at each end.

The other boards I cut them about 5mm shorter so that they will fit and slide easily into the groove I made in each side support post. These “grooves” were made by gluing and screwing a pair of parallel strips on each side support, leaving enough space for the boards to slide smoothly once the two coats of protective stain has been applied. As I mention in the video, the truth is that I made the groove a bit narrow and the boards were cut just a couple of millimeters shorter than the T-beam, so once the stain was dry I had to fix these two problems.

To finish the wood fence I routed a decorative chamfer on the wood posts. Then I sealed the grooves and imperfections with wood paste, sanded with an orbital sander with medium grit sandpaper, hand sanding the hard to reach areas, and finished sanding with a foam block of fine grit sandpaper. Finally, I applied a couple of coats of exterior protective stain to protect the wood …

and I was able to mount all the parts of the height-adjustable fence. Finally it can be used to train the dog.

How to make a height adjustable wooden fence:

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