En esta entrada voy a realizar la unión del poste vertical a la base para obtener la T invertida de los soportes de madera de la valla. Y voy a unir los refuerzos laterales a 60 grados, y que ya corté anteriormente.
Empiezo uniendo el poste vertical a la base horizontal. Para ello tengo que cortar una muesca de 2,5cm de profundidad donde encajará el poste. Realizo todo este proceso a la vez para las dos T invertidas de la valla de madera. Con el pequeño carro de escuadrar casero resulta muy sencillo ajustar las dimensiones de la caja para que el poste entre perfectamente ajustado. Para unir las piezas uso cola para exteriores, aplicando una buena cantidad con la esperanza de que esta también selle la unión y evite la entrada de humedad a la unión de madera.
With a 10 mm Forstner bit I also drill a couple of counterbore holes from the bottom of each base. This holes are deep enough so that the smooth part of the screws that I am going to use can reach the surface between both parts of the joint. This way, when I tighten the screws they will pull the post towards the base and I avoid having to use some complicated clamping system while the glue dries.
With the help of a large clamp and a wooden wedge cut at 60º, I hold the brace firmly against both the post and the base while I drill them. But it is also necessary to clamp the T-shaped support horizontally on the workbench top. I have to clamp the T-shaped support at three points on the workbench to avoid deformations due to the pressure exerted by the clamp that tightens the braces.
Now that all the parts are in their correct position, I can drill the counterbore holes and the guide holes for the screws. And since the screws are quite long, I have to remember to drill pilot holes in the reinforcements as well as in the post and in the base.
I must also maintain the corresponding inclination by continuing the hole from one piece of wood into the other into which the screw will enter. Once I have all the holes in a reinforcement drilled I can apply a good amount of exterior wood glue. I drive in the screws and hide them inserting pieces of wood dowels in the holes, just as I did with the post-to-base T joint of these wood fence supports. After that I can clamp the other reinforcement to the other side of the post. And then I do the same work on the other wooden T-shaped support of the fence.
With some sawdust I wipe off the excess of glue and let it dry overnight.
Now I can use the hand saw to cut the part of the of wood dowels that is sticking out, and I will make them look nice.
With the chisel I leave the surface of the dowels flush with the wood surface around them. And after a little sanding they look nice and perfect. Unless you’re a little picky about the wood grain direction. There is no need to be so detailed with these wooden supports either.
Cómo hacer una valla de madera de altura regulable:
Odd way to make 30 and 60 degree cuts in wood
Using bolts to join the fence parts and finishing it.
