In this post, I will join the vertical post to the base to obtain the inverted T of the wooden fence supports. I will also join the 60-degree lateral reinforcements that I previously cut.
I start by joining the vertical post to the horizontal base. For this, I have to cut a 2.5cm deep notch where the post will fit. I do this process at the same time for both inverted T’s of the wooden fence. With the small homemade squaring cart, it’s very easy to adjust the dimensions of the box so that the post fits perfectly. To join the pieces, I use exterior glue, applying a good amount with the hope that it also seals the joint and prevents moisture from entering the wood joint.
Additionally, from the bottom, I drill a couple of blind holes with a 10-millimeter Forstner bit, deep enough for the smooth part of the screws I will use to reach the joint. This way, when tightening the screws, they will pull the post towards the base, avoiding the need to use a complicated clamping system while the glue dries.
With the help of a large clamp and a 60º wooden wedge, I keep the reinforcements firmly against the post and the base while drilling them. But it’s necessary to clamp the T firmly in three points to prevent the wooden supports from deforming due to the pressure exerted by the clamp tightening the reinforcements.
With all the pieces held in their correct position, I can drill the blind holes and pilot holes for the screws. And since the screws are quite long, I need to remember to drill the pilot holes in the reinforcements, the post, and the base.
Additionally, I must maintain the correct angle when continuing the hole from one piece of wood into the other where the screw will enter. Once all the holes in a support are drilled, I can apply a good amount of exterior glue. I insert the screws and close the holes with pieces of glued wooden dowels, just as I did with the post-to-base joint of these wooden supports. Then, I can place the other reinforcement and do the same work on the other T of the wooden fence.
With a bit of sawdust, I clean the excess glue and let it dry overnight.
All that remains is to cut the protruding pieces of wooden dowels with the saw and make them look nice.
With a chisel, I level the dowel surface with the wood. And after a bit of sanding, they look perfect. Unless you’re picky about the grain directions. You don’t need to be that meticulous with these wooden supports.
How to make a height-adjustable wooden fence:
Odd way to make 30 and 60 degree cuts in wood
Using bolts to join the fence parts and finishing it
